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April 2007

April 30, 2007

Power (part 2)

Knobtube The earliest remnant of Chez Melendy's wiring was knob and tube.  None of this wiring was still in use but knobs and tubes are scattered throughout the house on the framing members.  Knob and tube wiring is a system where exposed wires, held in place by porcelain insulators, are run along the house's framing members to reach light fixtures mounted in the center of a room. Wherever the wiring has to penetrate a beam or wall, a porcelain tube is used as an insulator. This style of wiring saw wide-spread use in the early 20th century because it was a safe and easy way to retrofit existing homes with electricity. 

It isn't always necessary to replace knob and tube wiring if it's in good shape, but the exposed wires have to be protected from coming in contact with anything such as blown-in insulation or fiberglass batts. Because modern living often requires use of attics and basements in ways they weren't used back when knob and tube wiring was installed, it's probably best to replace it.  It's also likely that any rubber or cloth that was used as insulation for this kind of wiring is now degraded and would have to be replaced anyway.

In the last post I said that the patchwork of wiring that we found in Chez Melendy wasn't a crime.  I should clarify that splicing new and up to date wiring to old circuits is risky.  It's possible that the old section of wiring may have degraded to a dangerous state even if it was originally designed to handle the amperage designated at the breaker box.

Greenfieldbedroom The next generation of wiring I encountered in the Chez, and the oldest that was still in use, was the two-conductor, cloth-insulated wiring surrounded by flexible metal conduit known as Greenfield.  This was all in pretty good shape.  It ran throughout the ceilings in the house providing service to light fixtures at the center of every room.  On each floor, within the ceiling, junction boxes radiated conduit like tentacles of a giant metal octopus.  It seemed  a shame to pull all this stuff out, but even though it was in good shape, Greenfield doesn't provide the continuous ground the same as modern Romex does and the likelihood for failure of the cloth-insulated conductors is a fire hazard.  I did, however, use some of this old stuff to wire a couple of light fixtures where the wiring is exposed -- a sentimental nod to Chez Melendy's electrical pedigree.

At some point the owners of the house decided to add receptacles to their electrical service.  This was accomplished by running an early version of Romex from the Greenfield junction boxes down through the walls to outlets mounted in the baseboard.  By adding receptacles, the owners provided both a doorway into the convenience of modern residential electric but also set the stage for a hazardous situation down the road.

The old Romex that was used to service the wall outlets was ungrounded and made of two-conductors surrounded by an asphalt impregnated cloth insulator.  This material was severely degraded by the time I discovered it in the walls.  It was dried and cracked and an accident waiting to happen.  I was happy to pull this stuff out and, if for this discovery alone, I was glad to have decided to gut the house and rewire it.

The next step in the evolution of Chez Melendy's electric service was the addition of a breaker panel and  a new circuit for kitchen appliances.  It was probably the need for the new kitchen circuit that prompted the addition of the breaker panel, and some might argue the Melendys would have been better off saving themselves the expense and just adding the circuit.  The panel may have cleaned things up a bit but for all the other circuits in the house, it was simply a new link in a weak chain.  The fuses that controlled the old circuits were probably safer for them than the new-fangled breakers.

This was the state at which I inherited the wiring. A 60's era breaker panel with 14 gauge Romex (smaller gauge grounding wire) feeding into older circuits of Greenfield.

Next time I'll get into my foray into re-wiring the entire house.

handyman

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April 23, 2007

We Got the Power

Reaching for a mug in the kitchen cabinet this morning, I was reminded of one of the large improvements I've made to Chez Melendy.  Behind the wine glasses in the cabinet is an electrical outlet that's dedicated for a microwave.  Why behind the wine glasses?  Well, that's another story, but the fact that the house now has modern electrical service is significant.  When Chez Melendy was built, residential electrical service was merely a dream for the future, and the closest thing to a microwave oven was a 900lb cast-iron behemoth that was powered by wood and doubled as the furnace.

Oldbreakerbox When we bought Chez Melendy, the electrical service had the appearance of being just barely sufficient.  There were two ungrounded electrical outlets in every room and there was a breaker panel in the basement.  It looked as though the service had been upgraded sometime in the last 40 years because the cable running out of the breaker box was all NM thermoplastic coated Romex of an early vintage.  There was also some older BX cable (flexible metal conduit with 2 cloth-insulated conductors running inside) that ran out into the barn, so without breaking into any walls I knew that there were at least two generations of wiring in the house.

The plan was to gut the house. Besides giving us the opportunity to insulate the walls, gutting would allow us to install up-to-date electrical service.  Modern living runs on electricity. Using power strips and extension cords to supplement available outlets is frustratingly inconvenient and down right dangerous. 

As we found to be the case in Chez Melendy, the "upgrade" to early vintage Romex was really just replacing one section of a weak chain.  In most every circuit, the Romex would be joined at a junction box further down the line to either the old BX cable or an even earlier kind of ungrounded 2-conductor Romex that was insulated using asphalt impregnated woven cloth. 

And for all the circuit breakers that appeared in the electrical box, the distribution of power was a joke compared to today's standards.  One circuit fed the entire upstairs, lighting and outlets.  Another fed the entire downstairs, lighting and outlets.  Another fed the refridgerator and a single outlet near the dining area.  Another fed the furnace--and this one had been tapped into to provide service to a bathroom that was added on the first floor.  And finally, a 220V circuit fed the well pump.

Actually, my guess is that for an old house this scenario wasn't too bad.  As long as the breakers aren't overrated for the circuit, a patchwork of wiring may not meet todays code but doesn't constitue a crime either.  And the further I got into the demolition, I realized that the wiring in Chez Melendy was a study in the evolution of residential electrical service. I'll write a little about that evolution next time and compare the old service to what replaced it.

handyman

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April 18, 2007

Hanging Rock

Blueboard1 The drywall used for walls taking a coat of veneer plaster is called blue board.  It's the same as your typical sheet rock except that the paper cover is specially treated to react chemically with the plaster. This creates a strong bond between the plaster and the drywall. Plaster can be applied to regular sheet rock as well, but it's best to treat it with a bonding agent first.

As far as hanging the drywall, it's best done with help, and when it came time for covering the high ceiling and steeply sloped walls in the master bedroom, I got some.  But most people have better things to do than help their friends hang drywall so I felt that if I still wanted friends, I should contract the work out or do it myself, and since I've taken the DIY aesthetic to obsessive levels, I did it myself.

There are two techniques I know of for hanging drywall alone.  One is to use a drywall lift. The other is to mount a cleat on the wall for propping up one edge of the sheet while you hold the sheet with one hand and drive in screws with the other.  Drywall lifts are available to rent at places like Home Depot, but I wasn't likely to get all the work done quickly enough to make it cost effective to rent one.  I used the cleat method along with a few 5 gallon buckets of elbow grease and got the job done. There was only one serious mishap where I was trying to mount a 10' sheet on the ceiling in the upstairs hallway.  The cleat did its job but my one hand wasn't enough to keep the sheet from collapsing under its own weight.  One large piece of blue board fell to pieces supported by a soundtrack of expletives.

Blueboard2Drywall is usually screwed into place though there are some places where hanging it using roofing nails is accepted. That's the way it was hung before the screw gun came into wide use.  I hung mine using 1-1/4" drywall screws and since I didn't have a drywall screw gun, I used my Makita cordless drill with a special bit for counter-sinking the screws.  It's important that the screw heads are sunk slightly into the drywall to hide them from the finished surface.

Once the drywall was hung, I covered the joints and the inside corners with fiberglass mesh tape. On the outside corners I tacked fine-mesh corner bead which protects them from damage.  The fine mesh type is used especially for veneer plaster applications.  Most applications use a regular metal corner bead.

In the places where sloped walls met with vertical, I used a special metal flex tape that has two parallel metal strips sandwiched between paper with a space in the center for making a bend.  This tape helps to create a straight corner where there's an odd angle.

Blueboard3 The joints and the screws were then all covered with a couple of coats of Durabond 90 jointing compound.  This is a setting type compound that comes as powder, is mixed with water, and then sets up in a short time to be super hard.  It's stronger than the typical plastic joint compound but it's much harder to sand so isn't usually used as a finish coat.  Since I was going to plaster over everything, sanding wasn't an issue.

With the drywall mounted and jointed, I was ready to start with the plaster.

handyman


p.s. Check out the following Builders Square animated How-to Tutorials associated with this post:

Hanging Drywall
Hanging Drywall on the Ceiling
Taping Drywall

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