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April 2007

April 30, 2007

Power (part 2)

Knobtube The earliest remnant of Chez Melendy's wiring was knob and tube.  None of this wiring was still in use but knobs and tubes are scattered throughout the house on the framing members.  Knob and tube wiring is a system where exposed wires, held in place by porcelain insulators, are run along the house's framing members to reach light fixtures mounted in the center of a room. Wherever the wiring has to penetrate a beam or wall, a porcelain tube is used as an insulator. This style of wiring saw wide-spread use in the early 20th century because it was a safe and easy way to retrofit existing homes with electricity. 

It isn't always necessary to replace knob and tube wiring if it's in good shape, but the exposed wires have to be protected from coming in contact with anything such as blown-in insulation or fiberglass batts. Because modern living often requires use of attics and basements in ways they weren't used back when knob and tube wiring was installed, it's probably best to replace it.  It's also likely that any rubber or cloth that was used as insulation for this kind of wiring is now degraded and would have to be replaced anyway.

In the last post I said that the patchwork of wiring that we found in Chez Melendy wasn't a crime.  I should clarify that splicing new and up to date wiring to old circuits is risky.  It's possible that the old section of wiring may have degraded to a dangerous state even if it was originally designed to handle the amperage designated at the breaker box.

Greenfieldbedroom The next generation of wiring I encountered in the Chez, and the oldest that was still in use, was the two-conductor, cloth-insulated wiring surrounded by flexible metal conduit known as Greenfield.  This was all in pretty good shape.  It ran throughout the ceilings in the house providing service to light fixtures at the center of every room.  On each floor, within the ceiling, junction boxes radiated conduit like tentacles of a giant metal octopus.  It seemed  a shame to pull all this stuff out, but even though it was in good shape, Greenfield doesn't provide the continuous ground the same as modern Romex does and the likelihood for failure of the cloth-insulated conductors is a fire hazard.  I did, however, use some of this old stuff to wire a couple of light fixtures where the wiring is exposed -- a sentimental nod to Chez Melendy's electrical pedigree.

At some point the owners of the house decided to add receptacles to their electrical service.  This was accomplished by running an early version of Romex from the Greenfield junction boxes down through the walls to outlets mounted in the baseboard.  By adding receptacles, the owners provided both a doorway into the convenience of modern residential electric but also set the stage for a hazardous situation down the road.

The old Romex that was used to service the wall outlets was ungrounded and made of two-conductors surrounded by an asphalt impregnated cloth insulator.  This material was severely degraded by the time I discovered it in the walls.  It was dried and cracked and an accident waiting to happen.  I was happy to pull this stuff out and, if for this discovery alone, I was glad to have decided to gut the house and rewire it.

The next step in the evolution of Chez Melendy's electric service was the addition of a breaker panel and  a new circuit for kitchen appliances.  It was probably the need for the new kitchen circuit that prompted the addition of the breaker panel, and some might argue the Melendys would have been better off saving themselves the expense and just adding the circuit.  The panel may have cleaned things up a bit but for all the other circuits in the house, it was simply a new link in a weak chain.  The fuses that controlled the old circuits were probably safer for them than the new-fangled breakers.

This was the state at which I inherited the wiring. A 60's era breaker panel with 14 gauge Romex (smaller gauge grounding wire) feeding into older circuits of Greenfield.

Next time I'll get into my foray into re-wiring the entire house.

handyman

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April 23, 2007

We Got the Power

Reaching for a mug in the kitchen cabinet this morning, I was reminded of one of the large improvements I've made to Chez Melendy.  Behind the wine glasses in the cabinet is an electrical outlet that's dedicated for a microwave.  Why behind the wine glasses?  Well, that's another story, but the fact that the house now has modern electrical service is significant.  When Chez Melendy was built, residential electrical service was merely a dream for the future, and the closest thing to a microwave oven was a 900lb cast-iron behemoth that was powered by wood and doubled as the furnace.

Oldbreakerbox When we bought Chez Melendy, the electrical service had the appearance of being just barely sufficient.  There were two ungrounded electrical outlets in every room and there was a breaker panel in the basement.  It looked as though the service had been upgraded sometime in the last 40 years because the cable running out of the breaker box was all NM thermoplastic coated Romex of an early vintage.  There was also some older BX cable (flexible metal conduit with 2 cloth-insulated conductors running inside) that ran out into the barn, so without breaking into any walls I knew that there were at least two generations of wiring in the house.

The plan was to gut the house. Besides giving us the opportunity to insulate the walls, gutting would allow us to install up-to-date electrical service.  Modern living runs on electricity. Using power strips and extension cords to supplement available outlets is frustratingly inconvenient and down right dangerous. 

As we found to be the case in Chez Melendy, the "upgrade" to early vintage Romex was really just replacing one section of a weak chain.  In most every circuit, the Romex would be joined at a junction box further down the line to either the old BX cable or an even earlier kind of ungrounded 2-conductor Romex that was insulated using asphalt impregnated woven cloth. 

And for all the circuit breakers that appeared in the electrical box, the distribution of power was a joke compared to today's standards.  One circuit fed the entire upstairs, lighting and outlets.  Another fed the entire downstairs, lighting and outlets.  Another fed the refridgerator and a single outlet near the dining area.  Another fed the furnace--and this one had been tapped into to provide service to a bathroom that was added on the first floor.  And finally, a 220V circuit fed the well pump.

Actually, my guess is that for an old house this scenario wasn't too bad.  As long as the breakers aren't overrated for the circuit, a patchwork of wiring may not meet todays code but doesn't constitue a crime either.  And the further I got into the demolition, I realized that the wiring in Chez Melendy was a study in the evolution of residential electrical service. I'll write a little about that evolution next time and compare the old service to what replaced it.

handyman

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April 18, 2007

Hanging Rock

Blueboard1 The drywall used for walls taking a coat of veneer plaster is called blue board.  It's the same as your typical sheet rock except that the paper cover is specially treated to react chemically with the plaster. This creates a strong bond between the plaster and the drywall. Plaster can be applied to regular sheet rock as well, but it's best to treat it with a bonding agent first.

As far as hanging the drywall, it's best done with help, and when it came time for covering the high ceiling and steeply sloped walls in the master bedroom, I got some.  But most people have better things to do than help their friends hang drywall so I felt that if I still wanted friends, I should contract the work out or do it myself, and since I've taken the DIY aesthetic to obsessive levels, I did it myself.

There are two techniques I know of for hanging drywall alone.  One is to use a drywall lift. The other is to mount a cleat on the wall for propping up one edge of the sheet while you hold the sheet with one hand and drive in screws with the other.  Drywall lifts are available to rent at places like Home Depot, but I wasn't likely to get all the work done quickly enough to make it cost effective to rent one.  I used the cleat method along with a few 5 gallon buckets of elbow grease and got the job done. There was only one serious mishap where I was trying to mount a 10' sheet on the ceiling in the upstairs hallway.  The cleat did its job but my one hand wasn't enough to keep the sheet from collapsing under its own weight.  One large piece of blue board fell to pieces supported by a soundtrack of expletives.

Blueboard2Drywall is usually screwed into place though there are some places where hanging it using roofing nails is accepted. That's the way it was hung before the screw gun came into wide use.  I hung mine using 1-1/4" drywall screws and since I didn't have a drywall screw gun, I used my Makita cordless drill with a special bit for counter-sinking the screws.  It's important that the screw heads are sunk slightly into the drywall to hide them from the finished surface.

Once the drywall was hung, I covered the joints and the inside corners with fiberglass mesh tape. On the outside corners I tacked fine-mesh corner bead which protects them from damage.  The fine mesh type is used especially for veneer plaster applications.  Most applications use a regular metal corner bead.

In the places where sloped walls met with vertical, I used a special metal flex tape that has two parallel metal strips sandwiched between paper with a space in the center for making a bend.  This tape helps to create a straight corner where there's an odd angle.

Blueboard3 The joints and the screws were then all covered with a couple of coats of Durabond 90 jointing compound.  This is a setting type compound that comes as powder, is mixed with water, and then sets up in a short time to be super hard.  It's stronger than the typical plastic joint compound but it's much harder to sand so isn't usually used as a finish coat.  Since I was going to plaster over everything, sanding wasn't an issue.

With the drywall mounted and jointed, I was ready to start with the plaster.

handyman


p.s. Check out the following Builders Square animated How-to Tutorials associated with this post:

Hanging Drywall
Hanging Drywall on the Ceiling
Taping Drywall

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April 17, 2007

Let there be Light

Nopower2 If you live in the northeast, you'll have spent the day recouping from the storm that just whipped through here.  Everywhere in our neck of the nation got treated to some excitement over the last couple of days.  For us it was about 36 hours without power.

Here in the boondocks losing power is fairly commonplace during a storm but the power company can usually get it back on after a few hours.  Two mornings without it gets a little tiresome.  The woodstove keeps us warm but there's no water (a submersible pump delivers our water from an artesian well).  Experience told me to be prepared so we filled up a couple of 5 gallon buckets when the storm descended and that got us through okay.  In fact I was just heading out to the makeshift emergency center at the elementary school to refill the water supply when the power clicked on.

Frequent power outtages may merit purchasing a generator.  Of course, as a DIYer I've got all kinds of ideas about retrofitting the snowblower with a power take-off that could drive a belt connected to a...

...we'll go with the 5 gallon buckets for now.

handyman

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April 11, 2007

Layer Upon Layer

Pinklanding_2 It'll probably take a couple of weeks to get all the plastering done --again, the DIY dilemma of only being able to work on the project in my "spare" time-- so I'll go back to describing the work it took to get to this point.

Like in the downstairs walls, after I installed new electrical and plumbing service, I filled the stud bays with pink fiberglass bats on both the exterior walls (for insulation) and the partition walls (for soundproofing). I then installed 1" rigid foam board insulation over the top of the studs of the exterior walls.  Downstairs I used 1/2" foam boards, but the 1" boards provide double the R-factor for about $6 more per sheet, and since I used fewer than 20 sheets upstairs, I've significantly increased the R-factor in my walls for less than the cost of two nights in a flea bag motel.

Wondering Putting the thicker foam boards on the upstairs walls meant an extra step in the rebuilding process though.  With the 1/2" foam boards, I was able to mount the sheet rock right over the insulation using 2" drywall screws that could pass through both materials and anchor soundly to the wall studs.  With 1" foam boards, sending a screw through 1-1/2" of material before reaching a wall stud wouldn't make for a strong enough wall; so I needed to install a layer of wood strapping over the insulation to provide a strong surface to mount the drywall to.  The gap between the drywall and insulation created by the strapping is also a nice little dead air space that bumps up the R-factor of the wall a little more as well.

Wallxsection Here's a quick sketch of the cross-section of my walls on the second floor.

handyman

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April 07, 2007

Plaster: Master or Disaster Part 2

Mattnathanielramon Plastering continued this week as I start down the home stretch towards finishing the upstairs.  It's a long home-stretch as there's trim work to do and tiling the bathroom, installing the tub and sink, and installing the electrical outlets, and then...

But getting the walls covered is a big step to giving the place a finished look.  Today I got help from my friends Matt and Nathaniel, and my son Ramon.  For covering the large surfaces, it's essential to have at least one person mixing while another one or two applies plaster.  Enjoy the show...

Checking the mixWorkinthecloset_2









Working the closet



Allinthewrist









All in the wrist



Mixerdelivers_2





The mixer delivers


Keepmoving







Keep moving before it sets



Keepingitclean



Keeping it clean


Gladtobedone





Glad to be done for the day.

Thanks to Cybele Merrick for taking pictures.

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April 02, 2007

Plaster: Master or Disaster

Plastercloset_2 A big step in finishing the upstairs got started this week.  I mixed my first batch of base-coat plaster and went to work skim-coating the walls of the closet in the Master Bedroom.  This was my first foray into plastering so starting with the closets allows me some training surfaces which will stay out of sight to all but those interested in what's hidden in there.  (What Alberto Gonzales and his minions think of my first attempts at plastering means little to me.)

I must admit, I was nervous about this job.  Plastering is a bit of an art and once it sets up and cures on your wall, there's no getting rid of it without some serious demolition.  So I read all the product literature I could find, and got advice from as many people as I could who had experience working with plaster, and then dove in.

Plastertable The job really requires two people because as you start working on one wall surface, you can't stop until that surface is finished.  If you start running out of plaster, you need someone else to start mixing another batch while you're applying the current one.  I was able to mix up small batches and apply them myself for finishing the closet walls and in only one instance did I run out.  The half-finished wall set-up while I mixed up another batch.  The result of finishing a single surface with two separate sets is a wall that looks like it's been patched.  In the closet, it's not a problem.  It might not be a problem for an oft-seen wall in an old house, but it would stick out if all the other walls don't share the same characteristic.

Plasterbuckets I'll be getting some help over the next week or so as I take on the rest of the plastering project, but when I'm working alone, I'll have to make sure I mix up batches that are large enough and not mind wasting what doesn't get used.

The tools needing for applying a base-coat of veneer plaster are:

The process for mixing a small batch goes like this:

  1. Cover all your work area floors with rosin paper.  A lot of plaster will hit the floor as you work and it's not easy to clean up.  This is no joke.
  2. Add about a quart of cool clean water to the clean dry bucket. (Note the emphasis on clean. Impurities in the mix will affect how the plaster sets.)
  3. Start sifting some dry plaster into the water and begin mixing it with the cage mixer.  Keep adding dry plaster and mixing until the mix starts to "peak".  You want the plaster to be a consistency somewhere between yogurt and peanut butter.  You need to be able to move it around with the trowel without a lot of effort but you also want to be able to transfer it from hawk to wall without it sliding off onto the floor.
  4. When you think you've got the right consistency, mix it some more to make sure it's all mixed in but don't mix it for more than 5 minutes altogether.  The more you mix it, the faster it'll set and generally speaking, you don't want it to set-up quickly.
  5. Dump the batch onto the plastic covered table, getting as much out of the bucket as you can.
  6. Clean the bucket and the heavy-duty mixer.  This is where a helper comes in handy.  You need to get the tools and mixing bucket clean before you start mixing another batch, and before the plaster sets up on them.
  7. Now to get it on the wall.  Scoop some of the mixture onto your hawk and head to the wall/ceiling.  With some wrist action, use the trowel to pick up plaster from the hawk and slop it onto the wall.  Spread out the plaster, get some more and repeat.  Work from one corner towards the center and if it's a wall, from the top down.  When you get near the floor, be careful not to pick up any dirt. Don't work the material too much, just get it on the wall with a relatively uniform thickness.
  8. Once you've got the wall covered, let it start to set up.  Once it has started to set a little, use your trowel to smooth it out, again not working it too much, just one pass if possible.  This is where you'll be glad you spent a little more and got a good trowel.
  9. If you're doing more than one wall with a given batch, work on opposite walls, not adjoining ones.  You'll want to finish the adjoining wall after the current one has set up well.

When I get some helpers on the job, I'll be able to take some action photos...

handyman

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